Recap: The Humanmanure Handbook
Honest folks, this whole process is Odor Free!
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If you don't have time to read the entire book, The Humanmanure Handbook, by Joseph Jenkins, then let me abridge it for you.
In order to grow food in future years you need to compost all of your kitchen scraps, yard vegetation, paper,etc. Composting is necessary because you may not be able to purchase bagged soil or fertilizer. And without those next years vegetables won't grow.
Now all you have to do is add nitrogen to the pile. This usually comes from chicken or cow manure. But what if your neighbor doesn't have a cow?
Human manure contains more nitrogen than chicken or cow manure. So use it.
In order to cure the pathogens in human manure and make the compost safe for your vegetable garden, the compost pile must sit an extra year.
This method would also be needed in the event that municipal sewage systems cease to function or there isn't enough water to flush with. If all of your neighbors did this then deadly typhoid and cholera outbreaks could be avoided.
Because the pile must cure an extra year, feel free to add anything biodegradable to it, except large sticks or bones. This means you can add disposable baby diapers, feminine hygiene products, road kill, meat and dairy scraps, weeds, torn up newspaper or cardboard, leaves, ground-up tree mulch along with your urine and/or fecal matter.
Ninety percent of the nitrogen passed from the body is in the urine. You can use a urinal bottle ($6.00 - do not purchase the cheaper ones) and pour it directly on the compost pile, bypassing the $25 collection toilet.
Because the compost pile must cure one year after adding the last human excrement to it, you need to build two compost piles: One for the upcoming spring and one for the following spring. Therefore, this year build two piles: one for human excrement and one without. The one without will be ready next spring. Then you will always be adding manure to one pile and letting the second pile cure an additional year. After the first year you will never do the conventional six month composting method again.
It must be about five square feet and about four feet high when you stop adding to it. This will generate enough internal heat to cure the pathogens.
The Humanmanure Handbook suggests you build a double compost pile with storage for cover material in the center.
Pour debris on the pile and forget it. If you add a lot, wet the top before adding another layer. The pile should have the water consistency of a wrung out sponge. That moisture is what causes the interior to heat up and kill the pathogens and cook the debris down to mulch. Do not build the pile on concrete or plastic sheets; this allows worms to enter the pile and do their part. About every half foot add a layer of straw, hay or anything that allows air to be pulled into the center of the pile.
Never turn the pile as this only disturbs the worms, bacteria, enzymes etc. Turning is harmful to the pile using this method.
Dig a hole in the center of the pile. Empty the bucket. Cover the hole and then add a layer of new leaves, hay, sawdust , shredded paper or whatever. Rinse the bucket and pour the waste water on the pile. Feel free to pour urine only, if collected elsewhere, on the top of the pile whenever.
Fifty percent of residential water usage is from flushing toilets. This method reduces the 1,500 gallons a month for flushing down to about 2 gallons a month (rinsing the buckets). It also reduces the amount of garbage that has to be dealt with. In addition, you can sleep at night knowing you are no longer polluting the rivers and oceans.